Rustoleum Auto Primer

He still believes it to be true, since he hasn't retracted it from his video or explained it further in the time since Lazurus pointed it out?
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I must be very dense, because I just don't understand you. Let's just leave it there.
In short. bauman says in one of his film which i wont trace right now to give as evidance, he was speak about the A crimson as non color and recommend to avoid it. my comment was "shit, i just bought a 60ml tube yesterday" so he answerd to return it :D
 
One thing (for me, anyway) is easy access to the alternatives; I can walk to the hardware store, but I rarely get to go to the art supply store. And laziness, since i don't have to clean a brush. And I like the surface my preferred alternative leaves. I don't know about a cost comparison, though, but I imagine the alternatives might win over the expensive alkyd art primer I use for oils and alkyds.
I rally trying to catch the expensive thing. how much is expensive? and how much they mean to save.
 
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In short. bauman says in one of his film which i wont trace right now to give as evidance, he was speak about the A crimson as non color and recommend to avoid it. my comment was "shit, i just bought a 60ml tube yesterday" so he answerd to return it :D
Thanks. Well, I have used alizarin crimson for many years. It is very useful for glazes over yellow and ochre, and definitely not a non-colour. Perhaps he meant something else.
 
I rally trying to catch the expensive thing. how much is expensive? and how much they mean to save.
I have never compared how many panels I could prime with one as opposed the other, but the Windsor & Newton alkyd primer was nearly 40.00 US dollars at the art store, whereas I could get the same amount of an alternative by volume for maybe $10.00 or $12.00 at the hardware store.
 
One thing (for me, anyway) is easy access to the alternatives; I can walk to the hardware store, but I rarely get to go to the art supply store. And laziness, since i don't have to clean a brush. And I like the surface my preferred alternative leaves. I don't know about a cost comparison, though, but I imagine the alternatives might win over the expensive alkyd art primer I use for oils and alkyds.

Well, there's always online. The classic, time-proven primer for oils is of course lead white, which can be had from many different sources, but it's expensive. I don't know anything about alkyds.

Again, good ventilation is essential for spraying anything with a solvent other than water. Outdoors is best.
 
Isn't "real" Aliz Crimson a fugitive color? I'd be surprised to find the real smashed-up-bugs kind of it anywhere today.
Yes, it is supposed to be, but the synthetic version seems to be much safer to use formulated in oil paint. I have never experienced any problems with it.
 
Again, good ventilation is essential for spraying anything with a solvent other than water. Outdoors is best.
Definitely. I use the spray outside. But thanks. And I use the alkyd primer outside too because it contains (probably mineral spirits) solvent. And then there's the brush cleaning with solvents...
 
Yes, it is supposed to be, but the synthetic version seems to be much safer to use formulated in oil paint. I have never experienced any problems with it.
I have found it very strong compare to the magenta. im not saying im not or wont use it. if it will be my need for sure i will.
 
I have never compared how many panels I could prime with one as opposed the other, but the Windsor & Newton alkyd primer was nearly 40.00 US dollars at the art store, whereas I could get the same amount of an alternative by volume for maybe $10.00 or $12.00 at the hardware store.
Im speaking about the gesso primeir. at my place i wont save nothing by buying gesso, canvas and frame. its even will cost me more. not talking about panels which are not poplar here and if i would go to buy some panels they would cost me more than strech canvas.
 
Oh, maybe. I was hoping to get a reference to his video.
Hermes - I don't have the reference but I remember him saying don't use crimson, and (maybe) alizarin. I think Lazarus is right (if I remember) he mumbled something about them not being paint - but he says this stuff an aside and did elaborate on what he meant by that.
 
at my place i wont save nothing by buying gesso, canvas and frame. its even will cost me more. not talking about panels which are not poplar here and if i would go to buy some panels they would cost me more than strech canvas.
Oh, yes, in that case, I'm sure you're right. And you're a real artist, while I'm just a guy who plays with art materials on a small scale :) It's probably more economical in every way for you to buy a pre-stretched and prepared canvas.
 
I still feel like I'd have to seal the panel first. Maybe I'm just anal. I always have sealed my panels before putting anything on them. I use the Zinnser Bullseye Universal Sanding Sealer with 1 part DH Alcohol. I guess if I want to then prime it white with something, it would probably have to be oil based from that point forward. I'm guessing. Or maybe I should prime it first and then seal it. I'm really not sure.
 
I still feel like I'd have to seal the panel first. Maybe I'm just anal. I always have sealed my panels before putting anything on them. I use the Zinnser Bullseye Universal Sanding Sealer with 1 part DH Alcohol. I guess if I want to then prime it white with something, it would probably have to be oil based from that point forward. I'm guessing. Or maybe I should prime it first and then seal it. I'm really not sure.
Yes, IMO, the panel should be sealed prior to grounding, on all sides and edges, especially if using MDF. MDF unsealed will take on moisture, swell and possibly cause the ground and any finish paint to lose adhesion, crack, wrinkle, etc. I would not use MDF. 3/16” thick Tempered hardboard is a better product for making your own panels cheaply. (Birch plywood is probably the best, but not so cheap). Hardboard should also be sealed on all surfaces.
Shellac is an excellent sealer for wood or hardboard. What Arty uses is better yet as it would both seal and ground the surface. For oil painting on hardboard I use ( brush on) a commercial oil base primer that has a moderate grit that is aluminum. This both seals and grounds the panel.
Besides, the spay on primers are mostly more expensive than oil base primer or acrylic gesso, and much more toxic having air borne particles.
IMO, this guy is a hack, if I were you I would be careful taking any advice from him. He says nothing about type of MDF, thickness, or sealing all sides and edges. And, one must shop around hard to find a paint MFG that still uses the old fugitive Alizarin pigment.
 
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The classic, time-proven primer for oils is of course lead white, which can be had from many different sources, but it's expensive.
I was surprised that lead white is still sold, but I've seen it recently online at the site where I get my pigments.
 
For oil painting on hardboard I use ( brush on) a commercial oil base primer that has a moderate grit that is aluminum. This both seals and grounds the panel.

That sounds interesting. Aluminum would have sounded odd to me, but I read lately that painting on aluminum panels is popular.

3/16” thick Tempered hardboard is a better product for making your own panels cheaply. (Birch plywood is probably the best, but not so cheap). Hardboard should also be sealed on all surfaces.

I warped two or three small, thin, uncradled hardboard pieces recently when applying my first ever batch of hide glue (unflavored gelatin in this case) and marble dust gesso a few months ago. I think maybe I should have let the size dry longer. The process was time-intensive but not without its own pleasures. And the ingredients were pretty inexpensive. No doubt the Birch plywood you mention would be nice!
 
So, what are the advantages of this alternative to acrylic gesso (I assume you aren't speaking of the real thing)?


Hi musket. I heard one artist on YT say that some acrylic gesso sucks the oil out of his paint. So he uses an oil base gesso. Maybe this one?

 
It may well. I only used it for painting with acrylics.

Lead white is still widely available as oil paint and probably always will be. Titanium dioxide isn't an adequate substitute. It's more opaque but makes chalky tints. Using lead white is perfectly safe long as you don't lick your brushes or otherwise ingest it. Probably not a good idea to let it get into a cut either.
 
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