Hi. I finished the last of the “lost empires” paintings (thank god). And now as I wait for canvases to arrive for the next thing, I think…what do I do now? WHAT DO I DO!! (she yells into the void). Well, I decided I have enough time to bother all of YOUSE. Blabbering calls…
So. We’re done gallivanting for a while but last month we went for an overnight trip to Taos (2.5 hours north). It’s my dream place. I can’t even describe how much I love it and how sad I am to be living here instead of there. But there’s no point crying over spilled milk and at least now, it’s close enough to visit. I’ll just show you PART of the visit, which is the afternoon spent at a historic site. Plus, it shows a kind of alternate reality to Kay’s NYC pictures and trip.
The
TAOS PUEBLO is an ancient Native village, estimated to have been built between 1000-1450 AD. Because today, it’s still without electricity or running water, only about 150 people live there full-time, making it one of the oldest
continuously inhabited communities in North America. (About 4500 Tiwa-speaking people, who are connected to the Pueblo, live outside the compound, in the surrounding area.) Maybe you’ve seen pictures of this because it’s been photographed a lot, although there are restrictions on what you can photograph.
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The whole pueblo encompasses 95,000 acres, with a small stream called the Rio Pueblo which passes through the middle of the compound. It’s crystal clear and its headwaters come from the sacred (and hidden) Blue Lake off in the mountains. That lake, as well as the surrounding land, was taken away by the government and exploited for its natural resources. (Well, duh of course it was). It took tribal elders 64 years of protests, appeals, lobbying, and legislation, to get Congress to pass the Blue Lake bill. Finally, in 1979, Nixon signed it, and the lake and land was rightfully returned.
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The main architectural feature and “hub” of the site is the multi-storied residential adobe complex. Windows and doors were added only during the last century. Before that, they would use ladders to go in and out through a hole in the ceiling.
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There are parts of the village that are blocked off from visitors, and other parts with small shops inside homes, with their doors wide open so that visitors can pop in, buy things and talk to residents. Hondos, which are rounded outdoor ovens, are scattered around. Some of their openings had barriers so that the dogs (running all over the place) wouldn’t climb inside for warmth, which is something they like to do when it gets colder. Here is Dog + Hondo + Church.
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The Catholic church is called The San Geronimo Chapel (St. Jerome is their patron saint) which was built around 1850. This was the third incarnation after the previous two churches were destroyed.
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The original church was built in 1619 by the Spanish when they settled and forced the Tiwas into Christianity. But then it was destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 when the Spanish were successfully pushed out of New Mexico by the Pueblo tribes. The church was rebuilt shortly thereafter. But during the War with Mexico, when the US Army began THEIR occupation, the Tiwas rebelled and assassinated the governor of Taos. In retaliation, the Army destroyed the church with artillery, while hundreds who had taken refuge inside, were also killed. That was in 1847 and today, residents (and certainly no visitors), are NOT allowed inside the cemetery area. The remains (with the old bell tower on top) still stand….
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Anyway, the day we were there, fall was in the air and the burning pinon (or was it cedar?) smelled soooo good. The leaves were turning golden, the sun was out and warm, and it was wonderfully peaceful. I had some nice chats - about ceremonial poles, horsehair pottery, and buffalos - with some of the friendly people that lived there. It was just a perfectly happy Taos kind of day.
The End.
Buh Bye.