Swatches for: Olv.Green/Trp.Oxide.Brown/Trp.Maroon/Scarlet.Lake/Purple.Lake/Pth.Blue.RS

[RenatoNF]

Hello my friends, I just received some new paints and, as I always like to do, I tried them all out doing some swatches.

I find it dificult sometimes to get real life photos of swatches on the internet, so this is why I'm sharing them here, so maybe it can be helpful for you guys that are curious about some pigment.

In the middle of the palette I've put down Titanium White PW6 and Cadmium Yellow Light PY35, to be known references and for white balance.
This is just pure color on the top, and adding Titanium White as it goes to the bottom.
The middle row (just bellow the white and yellow) are about 50% color/50% titanium white.

The colors are listed on the picture, but, from left to right (all are Winsor & Newton):

PY110 / PBk6 - Olive Green
PR101 - Transparent Oxide Brown
PBr25 - Transparent Maroon
PR255 - Scarlet Lake
PBr25 / PV23 - Purple Lake
PB15 - Winsor Blue Red Shade (Phthalo Blue)
Bonus mixture on the bottom left: Olive Green + Purple Lake = this mixture gives a "slow drying Burnt Umber", perfect for my style of painting.

Some random observations I can say from this first impression:
-PR255 is a great tinter, i little goes a long way.
-So is PB15, of course. PB15 Red Shade shows a very neutral blue right up until the moment where there is much more white, when it shifts a little towards cyan. I found this a cool feature, considering Ultramarine Blue is quite purple and PB15 Green Shade shifts a lot more towards cyan.
-Purple Lake (PBr25 + PV23) is a strong tinter and the mass tone is not very far off black.
-Olive Green (PY110 + PBk6) is a medium tinter and the mass tone is not very far off black.
-These two together (PL + OG) make a Burnt Umber kind of color, but with the benefit of having the entire range from green brown / chocolate brown / red brown / purple, as well as being slow drying compared to B.Umber.

Hope this helps anyone and I'm glad to test further into these colors, if anyone has interest.

 

[JSparrow]

Thank you for this demo. There are definitely some colors here I would like to try. I have a Rembrandt Transparent Oxide Red that looks like it falls between your Transparent Oxide Brown and the Transparent Maroon. it is one of my absolute favorites to use and I often add a little red to shift it more towards that maroon so I can see me going for that one. Also I really like the look of that olive green. I probably have more shades of green than any color, but I don't have that one...yet.

All in all great demo.

 

[Artyczar]

This is very helpful. Thank you!

 

[ntl]

Yes, thanks. Info such as this is so helpful, so important. I wish there were a separate section for color mixing questions for info like this and your previous post re blacks, and other color questions, to keep it all in one place.
This reminds me of a comparison of 5 Michael Harding white oil paint

that I sometimes refer to. Most of the differences in results are subtle, a couple, not so much. (MH has since taken zinc from titanium white)
I wonder how your colors would be different using different whites: zinc, or lead, and others.
The only colors of yours I have (not WN) are transparent Oxide Brown and thalo blue--maybe red shade, lol!
But I do have titanium +zinc, cremnitz white, zinc white, and permalba white.

 

[Hermes2020]

Thank you for the report, as well as for ensuring a proper white balance in the photo; the titanium white has no colour cast on my monitor. I have had experience with PBr25 (Transparent Maroon) and found it useful as a glaze over yellow to give beautiful, deep shades of orange. It is a strong tinter, so has to be handled with caution.

 

[RenatoNF]

My pleasure guys! Glad to help!

An update regarding drying time:
-Super fast dryer: Trans. Oxide Brown (1~2 day touch dry)
-Fast drier: Scarlet Red / Winsor Blue (red shade) (2~3 day touch dry)
-Regular drier: All the others (3+ days and not touch dry yet)

JSparrow, since i've tested those pigments, I've fallen in love with the combo W&N Olive Green + Purple Lake to darken basically any mixture and, also, to be convenience colors. I've liked them so much that I might just keep those 2 as my "earths"/"neutrals" from now on.
Transparent Oxide Red is a lovelly color, but for me, the fast drying kills it hehheheh. I really like regular / slow drying paints.

NTL, yeah, i think white might be the most important pigment choice in our palette, simply because it is in all mixtures, how opaque or transparent it is, and it dictates the standard softness or thickness of mixtures... For my style, I prefer the most opaque white I can get and I tend to make it a little more fluid with some medium. For this reason (and because I hate wasting paint), i've never bought another one other then Titanium White. From the brands I've tried, TW don't change much, it's mostly subtle diferences (I have Winsor Newton TW - Safflower, M.Graham TW - Walnut and M.Graham TW - Sunflower)

Hermes2020, PBr25 might be just perfect for my style. The only problem i have is not with the pigment, but rather that W&N only sells it on 37 ml tubes, aaaahhhh, and it is Series 2. hahahaha. Otherwise its pretty much a substitute for transparent oxides and umbers for me, but much more useful since its slow drying. I've settled with W&N Olive Green (Series 2, 200ml) + Purple Lake (Series 1, 37ml) for my "earths"/"neutrals", but will for sure use PBr25 in my palette until I run out of it, hehe.