What art supplies have you bought recently?

[E.J.H.]

Thanks Ayin, I´ll do that.
Btw did you use it for the same purpose as I intend to?

 

[Artyczar]

Actually no. I have only used it in oil painting.

 

[john]

Anybody here use Dorland wax? I understand it can be used as a fixative for proofing watercolor paintings, making it possible to frame them without the hassle of putting them behind glass.
Can´t find the stuff in artsupply stores "locally", so I would have to order it from abroad (or use a supply line via summer guests...).
It would be interesting to hear of first hand experience with the stuff first.

I've been meaning to try it. From what I have read one has to be careful not to smear the watercolor when applying. I suppose it depends on what kinds of WC paints. Staining ones should be fine but thick opaque ones may need a fixative spray first. I would always use a spray fixative first anyway.

 

[Bongo]

Bongo I'm no expert but I think that canvas frame is correct. A wedge goes in each slot. Described here. The slots aren't supposed to line up.

How to Use the Canvas Wedges That Come with a Canvas or Stretcher Bars - Jackson's Art Blog

This article describes why and how to use the Canvas wedges that come with a canvas or stretcher bars and illustrates how to insert them.

www.jacksonsart.com

*************************


I just got 4 large 1/2" gatorboards for mounting watercolor paintings. Never used it before but it's amazing stuff. Super stiff, and light.

So far I've glued 3 papers to the boards and it's come out great. Varnish the painting, pop a simple trim wood frame around it and call it done.

Currently have a full blank sheet being adhered. This mean not having to stretch the paper. I work with large sloppy washes and normally I have to stretch. I'm assuming that after the gel medium dries that new moisture won't weaken it ?


Edit; yes the gel medium should be waterproof after curing.



Is acrylic gel medium waterproof?


Gel Medium

A transparent gel which offers a durable, flexible and waterproof surface once dry.

Acrylic Mediums - Holbein Artist Materials​

https://holbeinartistmaterials.com › mediums-varnishes › a..

thanks John, you're right about the slots.

 

[laika]

Anybody here use Dorland wax?

It has a solvent in it to keep the wax spreadable. I have no idea what effect a petroleum-based solvent might have on watercolors. I mean, it evaporates, but it's present when you apply it.

Can´t find the stuff in artsupply stores "locally", so I would have to order it from abroad (or use a supply line via summer guests...).

Does your store stock Gamblin Cold Wax? Same sort of thing, I think.

 

[laika]

Ancient Yashica-Mat 6x6 TLR. Thank you, Santa - I almost have that old shutter cleaned up and working properly!

 

[Johnem]

My most recent purchase was a bunch of tubes of “vintage” oil paint via two different eBay sellers, mostly Grumbacher and Shiva. Lots of my staple colors like cad reds and yellows, ultramarine, cobalt and Prussian blues, viridian, earths of various types, mars and ivory black, plus a bunch of colors I’d probably never buy new but I’m looking forward to playing with. Cobalt and thio violet, ultramarine red, Shiva ice blue, and some convenience mixed greens. At around three bucks per tube shipped, I can deal with them being slightly less than full and somewhat grubby!

 

[laika]

At around three bucks per tube shipped, I can deal with them being slightly less than full and somewhat grubby!

Wow, sounds like a good haul! Some of those colors would be quite costly these days.
Welcome, btw.

 

[Marksmomagain]

These are a few recent items I have acquired from a couple thrift stores:

The books:
"Black and White By Brown. Drawing Simplified" by Paul Brown $3.99.
"Color Choices Making Sense Out of Color Theory" by Stephen Quiller $3.99.
"Fun with Watercolor" by Tom Lynch $3.99
"Underwater Fantasies" by Robert Lyn Nelson free (buy 3-get one free).

A zip lock baggie container 47 Art Stix $4.

 

[16ga]

Nothing good but I picked these up yesterday for 4 something.
Never really tried oil pastels that weren't hard before and wanted to give them a try.

 

[classic]

I bought me too a set of children's level oil pastel sticks Carioca, 24 colors. I didn't practice pastels for decades, as I didn't use them since school years. I want to recall how oil pastels work. In fact, at school I worked with Talens pastels, not any cheap ones. Mother mastered well techniques of oil pastel and gouache, she never bought cheap materials for my sister and me. I remember among others, a big 60 color box, Talens or Sakura (I don't remember the brand). Nevertheless it seems that Carioca products aren't bad for that level. I remember another obscure cheap oil pastel set that were good for the trash can only: they had too much of something like wax. almost no pigment, and even dark colors left just a light pastel trace on the paper after several passes. They blocked any paper's tooth, so I couldn't apply another color for blending. My first tests show that Cariocas are much better.

Now, I learn that there are various techniques of blending oil pastel colors using a brush and oil or solvent (or a mixture of them). I already own bottles of Winsor & Newton refined linseed oil, Distilled turpentine and Artist's white spirit. However I'm not sure about brushes. I guess I have to look for any brush for oils. Do you have any idea? Synthetic or natural? bristle or soft? Have I to use them exclusively for oil pastel blending or can I use them for regular oil painting too?

 

[16ga]

Now, I learn that there are various techniques of blending oil pastel colors using a brush and oil or solvent (or a mixture of them). I already own bottles of Winsor & Newton refined linseed oil, Distilled turpentine and Artist's white spirit. However I'm not sure about brushes. I guess I have to look for any brush for oils. Do you have any idea? Synthetic or natural? bristle or soft? Have I to use them exclusively for oil pastel blending or can I use them for regular oil painting too?

I'm completely new to oil pastels and didn't know you can use them like that. But i do know a thing or 2 about painting.
I know the pastels use a nondrying oil unlike the paints so I don't know if that could cause issues using the same brush for both.
But if its the same or close to using oil paints cheap soft synthetic brushes should work. Hog hair brushes are also fairly cheap and can hold more paint so they work for flats but if were just talking about blending soft should do the job.
That said i'm just guessing. but if no one with more knowledge chimes in i could experiment sometime in the next few days.

 

[Mississippi Hippie]

I dig crafts closet STUFF @16ga

 

[Terri]

Ancient Yashica-Mat 6x6 TLR. Thank you, Santa - I almost have that old shutter cleaned up and working properly!

View attachment 27353

Congrats (or, thanks Santa!)!

So, is the baby all cleaned up yet? I'm not one who will try to repair or clean up an old camera, so I can only get excited for you when you say it's ready. Looks pretty clean in the photo!

 

[Terri]

I bought me too a set of children's level oil pastel sticks Carioca, 24 colors. I didn't practice pastels for decades, as I didn't use them since school years. I want to recall how oil pastels work. In fact, at school I worked with Talens pastels, not any cheap ones. Mother mastered well techniques of oil pastel and gouache, she never bought cheap materials for my sister and me. I remember among others, a big 60 color box, Talens or Sakura (I don't remember the brand). Nevertheless it seems that Carioca products aren't bad for that level. I remember another obscure cheap oil pastel set that were good for the trash can only: they had too much of something like wax. almost no pigment, and even dark colors left just a light pastel trace on the paper after several passes. They blocked any paper's tooth, so I couldn't apply another color for blending. My first tests show that Cariocas are much better.

Now, I learn that there are various techniques of blending oil pastel colors using a brush and oil or solvent (or a mixture of them). I already own bottles of Winsor & Newton refined linseed oil, Distilled turpentine and Artist's white spirit. However I'm not sure about brushes. I guess I have to look for any brush for oils. Do you have any idea? Synthetic or natural? bristle or soft? Have I to use them exclusively for oil pastel blending or can I use them for regular oil painting too?

I use Turpenoid for spreading oil pastels. It's just odorless turpentine and works great. You can lay an oil pastel stick on its side to cover large areas, and do that in a few layers, then use any decent inexpensive artist brush to thin and spread it out. Makes a great underpainting or first layer.

As long as the brush is cleaned well, I don't know why it couldn't be used for regular oil paints. But someone with more experience handling brushes may have better insight on this than me.

 

[JennieJo]

Derwent watercolour pencils, a few days ago from a friend. Giving up watercolour painting. I've used Derwent coloured pencils, but not watercolour. Have done a few tests, they seem to have rich and heavy leads, but marks didn't match. Has anyone used them?

 

[laika]

So, is the baby all cleaned up yet?

The shutter was all gunked-up with old lubricant. I got the front side of the shutter cleaned, which freed it up to work properly, but I need to get to the backside and clean it, plus clean the back lens element. I dread going in that deeply because of all the tiny, tiny screws, springs and such, so I'm gonna do the absolute minimum back there. Fortunately, there is plenty of detailed information on the internet about cleaning and reviving these cameras. And if I really botch the cleaning, there is a gentleman in Atlanta who actually worked in the Yashica factory in Japan way back-in-the-day who still does clean, lube, and repair work. (Based on the particular lenses on the camera, it apparently was assembled in 1957 or '58.)

 

[Terri]

The shutter was all gunked-up with old lubricant. I got the front side of the shutter cleaned, which freed it up to work properly, but I need to get to the backside and clean it, plus clean the back lens element. I dread going in that deeply because of all the tiny, tiny screws, springs and such, so I'm gonna do the absolute minimum back there. Fortunately, there is plenty of detailed information on the internet about cleaning and reviving these cameras. And if I really botch the cleaning, there is a gentleman in Atlanta who actually worked in the Yashica factory in Japan way back-in-the-day who still does clean, lube, and repair work. (Based on the particular lenses on the camera, it apparently was assembled in 1957 or '58.)

Very cool - you're braver than I am. My husband is doing similar break-downs/cleanups with old Bakelight cameras. He's picking them up off eBay for 5 bucks, and sometimes they are actually in pretty fair shape.

It sounds like you're halfway there, at least. And you already have a contact to do the rest of the work if you'd rather. I wouldn't blame you; this isn't a Bakelight box but a much more complex twin lens reflex. Good luck! Can't wait to see what you get from this bad boy.

 

[classic]

there is a gentleman in Atlanta who actually worked in the Yashica factory in Japan way back-in-the-day who still does clean, lube, and repair work

You are lucky! Such cameras in good condition can do wonders.

 

[laika]

I think a couple of the big ones might be duck eggs: