Yes, I find the view finder to be very helpful in choosing the scene/comp and for the initial drawing/block in. Another important item is an umbrella or shade/light diffuser to make the glare manageable where you are unable to set up in a shaded spot. Without it it is difficult to see and capture the color on your pallete and image surface. Toned palette and canvas or panel is also helpful.Number 1 - if you don't use one already get a "view catcher." At $10. it's $9. overpriced but once you start using one you'd pay $20 to replace it. The first thing I discovered is that you have to set up much, much (much) further from the scene than you'd imagine. Whenever possible do sight-size painting. That's where the objects in the scene (that you composed with the viewfinder) appear to your eye, the same size that they will be on the canvas. You can use your brush handle to take measurements, find placement. Etc. Image copying from a photo that was the same size as your painting. -- same concept.
Number 2 - practice setting up and painting in your backyard, around your house until you get some of the kinks worked out.
Hi Hohn. Well, yup I have to agree, it can be an exercise in "patient frustration". It took a couple of goes for me. It was a bit easier as I often "try" to draw/sketch pleinair so I go a taste for it. My watercolour handling was too old and I was not at all confident with oils outdoors.´, but I did try with mixed success. Pastels work for me cos its fairly immediate and I can fix stuff.It seems like 80% of the time it's a complete disaster. For me anyhow. I just tried doing it again and it was like bashing my head against a wall. Other than that it was great. It was a beautiful place to be humiliated.
What were the impressionists thinking? Hey let's make painting even harder and drag all this stuff outside into the cold. Yeah they did that because they had no heating or AC. So why do we do it? Changing light? I can't even get non-changing light right.
This is kinda as close as I've come--taking some very quick/rough sketches and photos and rendering it all back in the studio because of heat or cold, or just not having any kind of outside set-up, or time, or patience, or fear of predators. You name the excuse, I have it. But I really enjoy looking at everyone's work and process.For those of you in country too cold to stay outside for long, consider spending the time you can tolerate the weather with a camera or cell phone camera. Compose your shots, then take them inside to practice. OK, so it's not truly "en plein air" for the painting part, but it will give you more confidence.
If weather permits, go for a quick sketch, even just a notan.
Job one in outdoor painting is choosing your points of interest and choosing how to depict them. While practice allows you to adapt to and even relish changing light, most of the time you have to choose one depiction of light and stick with it, which is where a quick sketch and/or photo helps a lot.
Having a photo and/or a sketch to work from in composing your picture is terrific practice.
Murray is right you know: If you have a window to any form of decent scene (not necessarily a full panoramic view) of outdoors, you could consider working inside and practicing that way until the weather improves.
Just some thoughts to get you over the hump and over the winter.
SO -- expanding on your idea - if the goal is to "simulate" plein air so you'll be better when conditions permit. Then let's make the simulation as close to the experience as possible.For those of you in country too cold to stay outside for long, consider spending the time you can tolerate the weather with a camera or cell phone camera. Compose your shots, then take them inside to practice. OK, so it's not truly "en plein air" for the painting part, but it will give you more confidence.
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John, you made me laugh.A big reason given for doing plein air is that cameras show the lights too light and the shadows lose detail. "Oh but you can't really get the light just right". No kidding. I never do. That's photorealism. But now many phone cameras can shoot in HDR mode (high dynamic range). So one photo is over exposed and one under and one in the middle. Combined into one they give the full range. I have it on my phone cam.
So there is even less reason now to schlep everything out in the heat and cold and bugs and damn nosy people and go without a bathroom and a cold beverage.
Want the experience at home? Run a fan full blast on you. Open the windows and turn off the heat and AC. Put all your stuff in a bag and then take it out. Set up a wobbly tripod with a tiny painting surface and pallet. Blast the TV with some annoying talk show on. Hold it in even though the bathroom is right over there. Maybe get a 2000 watt halogen lamp and put it over your head. And just put the scene you want to paint on the monitor and randomly change the brightness and contrast.
Oh, and don't forget to rush through it in less time than it takes to actually make a good painting.
Bongo, you're making it harder than it needs to be. Folks needn't be training for an Everest expedition. Keep it fun!SO -- expanding on your idea - if the goal is to "simulate" plein air so you'll be better when conditions permit. Then let's make the simulation as close to the experience as possible.
Pack up your gear, your plein air kit, exactly like you would if you were heading out to do plein air.
Carry your gear with you to the location you intend to paint.
1. Use a camera/phone with a lens/or lens setting so that the field of view matches what your eyes see. A simple way to do this is to look thru the viewfinder with one eye, and compare it with what you see with the other eye (blink back and forth). Adjust till things look the same size to both eyes.
2. Set aspect ratio or use grid overlay so the frame lines in the camera/phone are the same aspect as the panel you intend to paint.
3. Compose the scene under these conditions.
- use only the fixed setting outlined above.
- take the photo standing at a place you could also set up your easel and paint for 2 hours.
- and at a time when you'd have 2 hours or more of daylight left.
In other words - to the degree possible operate exactly as you would if you were going to paint - but it started to rain just as you were about to set up.
Back home, set up your easel etc. just as you would on location. Use ONLY what you previously packed. Forgot something - improvise. No paper towels - use your shirt. No sap green - mix it - use another color etc. No going to the fridge to get a beer, etc. No zooming in on the monitor or changing settings.... Give yourself about 2 hours . Done. No not done. Put the painting in your wet panel carrier, pack up your gear - now you're done.
I've never done this, but I've prepared for missions, and that's how it's done-- make the simulation as arduous/boring/painful/detailed as the real thing.
But:
If nothing else - do the photo part - take photos only standing where you could set up an easel and paint from, using the same fixed field of view as your eyes. That will train you to see/compose within the limitations of plein air . You may very well have to forfeit some great shots, or the ideal angle, and for me at least I discovered I had to stand way, way further away from the scene than if I was just taking a snapshot of it.
John, you made me laugh.
I'm a nubie, only been doing plein air since summer- 16 paintings so far. But the thing I did not expect was my level of focus and concentration when out there. Really. I go three hours without a bathroom break, a sip of water, a word of conversation - I'm just totally in the zone. So for me it's not a relaxing, awe-inspiring commune with nature - it's more like game on - fourth and goal, game tied two outs in the ninth. Very Bizzare, out of character for me. Not sure where that's coming from or where it's going.
You gave some (arguably) good reasons not to do Plein air, but what is it then with so many established, god-level painters swearing by the value of it?