Cayuga Waterfront Trail 1

P. Barrie

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Oils on canvas, 24” x 18”. Painted from photo I took.

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Great one P. Good shadow and light and I love the vibrant colors within all the greens.
 
Thank you fellow artists. The pic was taken late afternoon on a clear Oct. day, hence the bright sun and high contrast. Actually I find this lighting easier to paint.
I used no green paint. Mixed colors from Ultramarine Deep, Cad Lemon, Cad Orange, Cad Red, yellow ochre, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, and White. I may have also used an old LeFranc & B, primary blue that has Phalo and white. Not remembering for sure.
 
I am always interested to know more about the colours an artist uses, so thanks for that. Lately, I have started paying more attention to the pigment codes stated on paint tubes as well.
 
nice, I like it, the scene is beautiful and beautiful, the green, the colors used.
 
Thank you fellow artists. The pic was taken late afternoon on a clear Oct. day, hence the bright sun and high contrast. Actually I find this lighting easier to paint.
I used no green paint. Mixed colors from Ultramarine Deep, Cad Lemon, Cad Orange, Cad Red, yellow ochre, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, and White. I may have also used an old LeFranc & B, primary blue that has Phalo and white. Not remembering for sure.

It is nice to learn that I am not the only artist who usually prefers to mix his own greens. Once in awhile, when I am given a tube of Green as a gift, or "inherit" one from someone who quit painting, I will use it, but generally I mix my own. And, the trick to using any tubed green is to mix it with something else, usually for the purpose of dulling the color a bit.

When I have Cadmium Yellow Light on my palette, it is difficult NOT to create "Greens", sometimes by accident. Almost anything else on my palette, except Red, or Orange, will create "Green" when mixed with Cad Yellow Light. Ivory Black, Raw Umber, Thalo Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Manganese Blue, .....even Burnt Umber, will all create a "Green", or at least a "Green-ISH" color, when mixed with Cad Yellow Light.

Good painting, and interesting, regarding your mixed greens!
 
Nice piece .. color is good .. edges a little edgy for me on the back two walkers, but hey, we all go our separate ways. I thought everyone made their own greens except portrait painters.
 
Thanks to all for commenting. My choice of Cadmium Yellows is Cadmium Yellow Lemon and Cadmium yellow light or Pale. To me, Cad Lemon is the coolest of the Cadmium Yellows ( haven’t used Cad Chartruse), with each next level getting a little warmer, more orange, (light, medium, dark, orange). They all should have pigment PY35 or PY37. What makes them cooler (Lemon-greenish) or warmer (orange), is probably in the processing of pigment and processing of paint. I find you cannot get Cadmium light to have the same cool, bright tone as Cadmium Lemon. Vice versa for the warm bright highlight you get with Cad Light. If you mix a tiny amount of a neutral red in Cad Lemon you can warm it up but it may dull somewhat depending on your white and the properties of the red. I find PR254 to be fairly neutral. PR255 leaning a little to orange. M Graham makes a good Pyrrole red.
I have tried using a split primary palette. I find it more difficult to manage, but as I get more experience it may expand color relations.
 
Thanks to all for commenting. My choice of Cadmium Yellows is Cadmium Yellow Lemon and Cadmium yellow light or Pale. To me, Cad Lemon is the coolest of the Cadmium Yellows ( haven’t used Cad Chartruse), with each next level getting a little warmer, more orange, (light, medium, dark, orange). They all should have pigment PY35 or PY37. What makes them cooler (Lemon-greenish) or warmer (orange), is probably in the processing of pigment and processing of paint. I find you cannot get Cadmium light to have the same cool, bright tone as Cadmium Lemon. Vice versa for the warm bright highlight you get with Cad Light. If you mix a tiny amount of a neutral red in Cad Lemon you can warm it up but it may dull somewhat depending on your white and the properties of the red. I find PR254 to be fairly neutral. PR255 leaning a little to orange. M Graham makes a good Pyrrole red.
I have tried using a split primary palette. I find it more difficult to manage, but as I get more experience it may expand color relations.

Thank you for that bit of insight. It pleased the retired chemist that still lurks in me.
 
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